Thursday, 16 June 2011

Rome, Italy

Rome sweet Rome. I can't seem to stay away from this place really. I originally went over when I was 17 to brush up on my Italian and go to a language school. But I think I became rather addicted to this place because since then I have been back to Rome every summer for the past 5 years! In total I have probably spent about 8 months there and have become rather attached to the place. I have made some incredible friends along the way, some are still living the dream and are still in Rome, others are dispersed around the world and we do try to have reunions in different parts of the world when we can. Recent reunions have included Australia, London and Amsterdam. There are definitely some life long friends there....

Stunning view of the Colosseum from my friend's apartment
Just a quiet night out at Piazza di Spagna
There are so many things to love about Rome. Firstly the fact that you are surrounded by so much culture. Everywhere you go, there are historical monuments dating back to thousands of years ago just an arm's length away from you. I think we would sometimes take the Colosseum for granted because we spent every day there and after a while you stopped noticing it. But when I actually take a step back and take a moment to really look at it, I really appreciate the history and beauty of it. Piazza Venezia, with the huge white building, the Vittorio Emmanuale is another favourite of mine. I think for some reason it is one of the buildings loathed by the Italians, but I think it just looks amazing. Other than that there are obviously loads of other sites to see: the Vatican, Pantheon, Piazza del Popolo, Villa Borghese....the list goes on. Of course there is so much more than that  to discover in Rome. Down every side street there is another hidden gem. The streets are filled with al fresco dining, every coffee shop in Rome will serve the best coffee you have ever  tasted, and forgive me if you think it is a ridiculous comment to make, but the water fountains on the streets have the freshest and coldest water you will ever taste from a tap! Don't knock it until you've tried it my friend because on a hot summer day, when the sun is beating down on you and you have a sip of that water, you will probably think back to this blog and think, yep, she was right! It must be due to all those acquaducts we used to learn about in Latin class.
Piazza di Spagna - Spanish Steps

The Trevi Fountain
There are a few elements of Rome that do frustrate me however, which is probably why I could never picture myself living there long term. The public transport for example is still pretty backwards and unreliable, although it seems to have got better. There are also many cases of pickpocketing or taxi drivers attempting to con the tourists into paying more, so I would advise you to be careful of  your possessions and be alert. Finally, the general vibe that you get is that it is quite a lazy and macho culture in Italy. Shops shut in the afternoon for a siesta and they're often in no hurry to reopen or stick to deadlines. The men are quite something in Italy and I don't want to say sleazy but.....yeh...well obviously not ALL of them! They often tend to live up to every Italian stereotype that you see on TV and I'm pretty sure everyone is either called Davide, Giuseppe, Paolo or Marco. Don't get me wrong, I love my Italian friends! And there does come a point where those traits I mentioned become endearing, promise! But seriously, despite my rant, those are only minuscule details. Overall Rome is a fantastic city filled with culture, restaurants, bars, beaches and if you know the right places to go, an immense nightlife.

Vatican City 

Where to Stay?
Yellow
I would probably say that this is one of the best hostels in Rome at the moment. Just in terms of convenience, atmosphere, meeting people, the fact that they have a bar, and best of all they have fans in the rooms! Believe me, that is an essential item if you ever want to sleep in Rome during the height of summer. It is located right by the central station, Termini. Now don't get put off Rome if the first thing you see is Termini Station and the areas surrounding it. Trust me, it only gets better when you see tramps defecating on the floor in the car park! Yes I did witness that and it wasn't pleasant. I found myself thinking Rome seems like such a dirty place and not really wanting to stick around there. But the good news is that apart from hostels, you really don't spend a whole lot of time around Termini and there are a billion and one reasons to fall in love with Rome as well.


Invanhoe
A smaller hostel than Yellow and no I don't think it has a fan! But it is however very friendly and again very convenient as it is situated right in the centre, near the Colosseum. It is perfect if you are wanting to walk around town and sightsee. It is very easy to walk around Rome so it is definitely worth venturing on foot than taking their public transport.


Trastevere
This is a great area in Rome, all the streets are filled with market stalls, restaurants, bars that do Aperativos. It's a fabulous place to have a late afternoon stroll and enjoy a glass of wine in one of  the quaint little bars. It is also a great place to find some small hotels if you are willing to spend a little more than a hostel. I would definitely recommend you stay in this area and it is perfectly situated near the city centre. Either a short walk away, or a tram ride away.


Luxurious Option....
To be honest I am yet to find a 5 star hotel in Rome that I really thought 'Wow, this is amazing'. I stayed at one near Termini, which is probably where I went wrong to be fair. If you are looking for a good 5 star hotel I would probably start looking around Villa Borghese, Piazza di Spagna or Trastevere.


Where to go Out?
Campo Dei Fiori
I can't even begin to tell you how often I used to go to Campo Dei Fiori. In fact at one point I was living right around the corner from Campo Dei Fiori. Let me tell  you, those were great times. Especially back when Saby's was open! Cocktails were strong and only cost 4 euros. There are lots of bars to choose from around this square. It is primarily filled with a more International crowd, attracting the study abroad students and the expat community in Rome. I have had some of my best nights here and it is just a great place to catch up with friends or meet some new ones if you have just landed in town.

Campo Dei Fiori at night
Drunken Ship & Sloppy Sams
Both these bars can be found in the square in Campo Dei Fiori. And despite me saying that there are many bars in Campo Dei Fiori, these (apart from when Sabys was here!) were the only 2 bars that we ever visited. Both quite Americanised, you will find a beer pong table set up in the back. There are some great drinks deals and lots of pitchers to choose from in both bars. And best of all, the staff are great! What I loved the most about Rome was that even if you had no phone or any way of contacting anyone, you knew that if you rocked up to Drunken Ship or Sloppy Sams in the evening, you were bound to find a familiar face. All birthdays/events/meetings/farewells/welcome backs seem to have taken place in these two bars at one point or another.

Scholars, Between Piazza Venezia and Campo dei Fiori
Scholarssssss!! Best.Bar.Ever. I can't really tell you why this is the best bar ever but it just is! It's an Irish pub which is open until 4am so this was always our last port of call for the evening when everyone finished work, or when all the bars closed. Long neck Peroni's cost between 3 - 5 euros there. If you are not ready for your evening to end at 2am then this is definitely the place to go. Another very international crowd, primarily filled with the students and expat community.


Trastevere
For a more relaxed evening, I would say that Trastevere is a great call. Especially when all the market stalls are set up along the Tiber. You can spend hours wandering along to sample the different snacks and drinks, do a little bit of shopping or just enjoy a drink whilst watching the river flow by and doing a spot of people watching.


The Pub Crawl - Spanish Steps or Colosseum Pub Crawl
Pub Crawl!! When I say I worked in Rome, I was working for the Pub Crawl over here. Back in the days I would say that this was THE best pub crawl in Europe and the best night out you could have in Rome. Do I sound biased again? Maybe a little... But honestly it was just an amazing night out. We used to bring the party with us everywhere we went because there were just so many people on the Pub Crawl. If there weren't many people at the bar before the pub crawl arrived, it didn't matter because there were around 200 people on the pub crawl to fill the bar anyway. For 20 euros you could get a full Power Hour of all you can drink. There used to be lots of drinking games organised, then there would be around 3 or 4 bars along the way, free tshirt and a free shot in each bar. I think it would still be a lot of fun these days with an average of about 100 people, but nothing like how it was in the glory days. Definitely worth going on though if  you have a few days and want to be shown a good time in Rome and perhaps meeting some good friends along the way.

An average day on the Pub Crawl
Clubs

Piramide
If you were on the look out for more clubs than bars, then Piramide would be the area that you want. There are plenty of clubs to choose from here. Some better than others, but many charging entrance fee or you have to be on the guestlist. Unless you are a girl that is, because it always seems a little easier when you are a girl in Rome and you want to get into a club. 
On The Rox and Coyote are two places I would recommend in Piramide. On the Rox is more of a late night bar, but still good fun and a popular venue. Coyote on the other hand is a bit more like a club, but is free entry and a bit cheaper than the average club. 

The Expensive Option....
Clubs in Rome aren't cheap. Which is probably why we tend to stick to the bars around town or the Pub Crawl as that is a far more economical night out with equal amount of fun. But if you are adamant on going to a club in Rome there are a few I would recommend. 

Art Cafe, Villa Borghese
My favourite club in Rome I would say if I was looking for a club night out. Drinks here will set you back 15 euros whatever drink you have. Expensive yes, but if you aren't on a budget I do suggest you check this place out. The venue itself is gorgeous. When it is indoors the decor is chic and decorated in all white. In the summer time the club moves outdoors, which often tends to happen with many of the clubs in Rome as it is simply too hot to stay indoors. There is a pool, which sometimes gets put to use throughout the night. There have also been occasions where pasta has been served up at 4am to keep you going until closing at 6am. Generally attracts the trendy young Italian crowd who have a bit of money to spend


La Maison on the River 
Again, another club which is normally based in Piazza Navona that moves out once the summer months approach. A great airy and spacious venue along the Tiber. A fun night out and sometimes the pub crawl ends at this place so you can be sure that the place is always busy whatever day of the week it is. I think the drinks are a little bit cheaper than 15 euros a drink, although that is the average drink price in the clubs in Rome.


La Terrazza, Eur
This club is a little inconvenient to get to or get back from but it is another great venue. The club is held at the rooftop of the Town Hall so it is all open air. The music is great, the crowd is always young, attractive and trendy. All in all a good night out but only if you are willing to splash out on a taxi to get there and back.


Where to Eat?
Freni e Frizioni, Trastevere, Piazza Trilussa 
If you are wanting a real Italian experience then you must try the Aperativo. I think I mentioned it earlier on. What a fabulous concept this is! Not dissimilar to the Spanish tradition of buying a drink and getting a free dish of tapas, this is the Italian version of it. If you buy a drink you get a free food buffet! So for only 5 - 7 euros you get an all you can eat buffet. Definitely worth a try.


Luzzi, By the Colosseum
Like many Italian restaurants in Rome, it gives off the traditional family run vibe. Not sure if it actually is family run though! But the food is good authentic Italian food, the wine is cheap and best of all it is right by the Colosseum. Perfect to stop off in after a long day of sightseeing.


Insalata Ricca, Campo Dei Fiori 
If you are a bit of a salad connoisseur or a salad snob. Whatever you are, if  you enjoy a good hearty salad, this was one of my favourite places to come to. The selection of salads is huge and it is just perfect for a bit of al fresco dining and a light lunch.


Hard Rock Cafe 
It seems funny to be suggesting the Hard Rock Cafe when you are surrounded by pizzerias and an abundant selection of Italian restaurants. But if you are there for a long time, or if you are just sick of seeing another pizza for at least a day, then come to Hard Rock Cafe. We loved this place! Don't know if it was because of the atmosphere, the fact we could have burgers and chips after having so much pizza and pasta, or just because it was a great place to sit down and chill out with a group of friends. Anyway, it's  there if you are interested in going.


Snacks 
AristoCampo, Campo Dei Fiori in the main square 
Best panini shop I have ever stepped foot in. An amazing selection of toppings and they make the panini right in front of you, toasted, fresh and bursting with yumminess. Mouth is watering even thinking about the place.


Pizzerias 
There are a ridiculous amount of pizzerias around Rome and so far I haven't stumbled across a bad one. So if you are feeling a bit peckish, definitely go in a grab a slice of pizza. The majority of places let you choose how little or how much you want and they just slice it from the massive slab of pizzas they have in the display and charge you according to the weight.




Gelaterias, Giolitti, near the Pantheon
Again another thing in Rome you are spoilt for choice with. There are plenty of ice-cream shops around Rome. Perhaps some of the most famous ones are around the Pantheon, so if you are around that area then pop into Giolitti, because the gelato there is divine.


Living and Working in Rome
If you are interested in living and working in Rome I would not waste another minute pondering it, I would just go for it. It is a great place to live and settle in for a while. As I said, it is very addictive and I often find myself returning for a cheeky trip every year. It is pretty easy to get a job in a bar, restaurant or in tourism if you are interested in going over. 


Castel Sant' Angelo on far right
Where to Live?
If you are looking into accommodation I would suggest looking at these 2 sites: 

Roma Rentals was pretty helpful in finding a place for us and it was right in the centre as well so just perfect location for us really. We often tended to share a 1 bedroom amongst 4 of us, which brought the rent to about 350 a month for an apartment right in the centre of town. We lived very comfortably with a double sofa bed and a double bed in the bedroom. Of course, sharing in such close quarters with so many people is not always for everyone, but it suited our lifestyle well in Rome and living in the centre saved us a tonne of money on transport as we were able to walk everywhere. 

Around the centre - Colosseum, Campo Dei Fiori, Piazza Navona, Torre Argentina
If you are looking into areas to live in Rome, I really do suggest you start looking in the centre and work your way out if you are struggling to find anything. Because the cost of taking a taxi every night from town really does add up. Yes you can take the night bus, but it is quite a hassle and sometimes quite unreliable at times. The 4 places I have listed are as central as you can get and the prices are probably a little higher, but hopefully if you persevere you can find a good deal and it will most definitely be worth it.

Little cafe in Navona
Trastevere
Another great location to live in if you are looking for more of a quiet and Italian neighbourhood. Although there is hustle and bustle, it is still a more peaceful location to live in with lots of side streets that are still very tranquil. Also for convenience of food and bars, it is a great area to live in. I would suggest live as close to Piazza Trilussa as you can because that is just around the corner from Campo Dei Fiori and the rest of the central tourist sights. 


Markets along the Tiber
Beach
If you do get the chance to be in Rome for longer than a few days then I would definitely suggest that you go to the beach. A. To escape the unbearable Roman heat and take a dip in the water. B. Just to enjoy the beach as there are actually quite a few to choose from believe it or not. Santa Marinella is my favourite and it takes about 45mins to get there from Termini on the Civitavecchia train. Alternatively the closer option is Ostia and there are a few to choose from, I think the best I went to was called Cristoforo Colombo.

Ostia
Studying in Language Schools....


Dilit International House, by Termini 
If you are interested in brushing up on your Italian while you are over there so you can say more than Ciao Bella, Pizza, Pasta, Pepperoni! Then I would suggest you go to Dilit International House. This is the language school I attended when I was over there and I can't even begin to tell you how drastically my Italian improved there, even after just a week of studying there. There are many different levels and you will be given a level test when you first join so you can be placed in the appropriate level. The teaching methods are completely different to how you would learn at school, which is what I found great about it. They really encourage you to interact, they challenge and push you with lots of different listening exercises. A definite seal of approval from me on this one.

Wish List....
I am ashamed to say that I definitely did not do enough sightseeing while I was in Rome. I would love to venture a bit further out and see a few more sites rather than sticking to the city centre. I wish I would have taken full advantage of Culture Week, where all the places are free to visit and enter for a week. I also would have loved to go to Gianicolo to see the viewpoint. 
View from Gianicolo


When in Rome.....

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